Starting this month, I'm all about two things: restaurants and baseball. I'm not sure why I connect the two, but I guess it has something to do with getting deeper into the culture of a location by understanding the sports mores and by experiencing the cuisine. I kick off this series with a look at my current home, New York City.
Here's a restaurant, right in my neighborhood, that's gotten a lot of buzz, and I loved it! If you get a chance, get a reservation at
Crown on the Upper East Side. It's definitely the "crown jewel" (sorry about the pun) in my neighborhood.
When the Bruno Jamais supper club abandoned their turn-of-the-century
townhouse near Madison Avenue, there was a collective concern for a disappearance
of culinary class and quality on the Upper East Side. Chef proprietor John DeLucie saved the
neighborhood by bringing the refinement, “scene” and first-rate dining
experience of the Waverly Inn and the Lion uptown to the inviting Crown, the townhouse’s
new resident. With three dining spaces,
starting with a long but intimate bar, and continuing into a clubby wood-paneled
dining room, and an art-filled back-room, Crown excels at providing top-rate
French cuisine in an equally polished setting.
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| Jordan Salcito, Wine Director |
The restaurant is a scene, populated by both residents of the tony neighborhood
and those feeling the downtown trendy, yet upscale vibe. Dining, wines and service are excellent. Starters like Tasmanian trout tartare are
expertly prepared, fresh and a bit daring with pumpernickel crisps and
caperberry remoulade. Main courses are
pricey but delicious, including perfectly seared Maine diver scallops
accompanied by escargots to add a bit of brininess. Two meaty lamp chops, plated with Swiss chard
and chanterelles, are edged with a crusty blend of salt and pepper that seals
in the flavor and moisture. Ask Wine
Director Jordan Salcito for suggestions from the restaurant’s 200-bottle list;
her enthusiastic and knowledgeable description of each wine is like hearing
poetry to the grape. I loved the silky
2010
Marcel Lapierre Morgon and the slightly minerally 2009
Clos Blancheau from
Paso Robles. Both paired well with our
meat and seafood choices. It may be difficult
for you to take your eyes off the interesting scene and clientele at the restaurant
to give equal attention to the food and wine, but you should. You should also leave room for pastry chef
Heather Bertinetti’s signature creation, the warm chocolate soufflé which your adept
server will dress with malted English cream.
If you can’t get a prime-time seat in either of the two dining rooms (it
can be very difficult), the bar also serves dinner. Crown is also open for lunch. Dress up, and enjoy a wonderful New York
dining experience.
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