Christmas week and the beginning of
January mark the end of shopping frenzy for the holidays. But it’s also a
fabulous time to use shopping as an excuse to visit some of the most beautiful
cities in Europe and discover their cold-weather attractions. Magically lit and
filled with people in high spirits, Christmas markets, so much a part of the
European holiday season, are at the forefront with shopping, food,
drinks and holiday merriment. You can also leverage your shopping needs into a reason
to explore some of Europe's top hotels and cafes.
AUSTRIA
Vienna maintains
its position as one of the most beautiful cities in Europe. In addition to the special
art exhibitions and musical performances featured throughout the year, the city
gives you a choice of more than a dozen Christmas markets around the city
center and along the Ringstrasse. Across from Stephansplatz and near the
Austrian National Library, you’ll find charming “boutique” markets, each filled
with booths of beautiful snow globes (they originated in Austria) and other
crafts, as well as Glühwein (spiced red wine), mini donuts and other goodies.
The largest market, however, is the market on Rathausplatz against the
backdrop of Rathaus (City Hall), which extends for rows and rows with booths
and booths and booths of treats. Beat the cold with a sweet palatschinke (a
rolled-up pancake) to go with your warm, spiced Glühwein (you pay a deposit and
you can keep the ceramic mug), the perfect snack combo to enjoy as you meander
with the crowds. Here, too, is Vienna's tallest Christmas tree, standing about
30 meters high. The kids will love the carousel and reindeer train, not to
mention the ice skating rink. If you're sightseeing in other parts of the
city, Belvedere Palace and Schönbrunn Palace also have their own
colorful Christmas markets with lots of holiday cheer. Need another break?
There's nothing like a Sacher torte
at the acclaimed Café Sacher Wien
at the stately Hotel Sacher.
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| Vendors, Christmas Market |
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| Christmas Market at Rathaus |
Where to Stay: The best, in my opinion, is the super-luxe Hotel Imperial on
the Ringstrasse. In a great location to experience Vienna's sites, the hotel is
five-star when it comes to service, accommodations (gorgeous, gorgeous rooms),
and dining and beverage. You’ll pay for the privilege of staying here, but
it’s worth every euro. You can soak up the 1863 atmosphere in the lounge where
a pianist entertains nightly. And if you’re a music fan, you’ll love that the
hotel sits right next to the Wiener Musikverein where the Vienna Philharmonic
play. Also appealing is that the Haus der Musik, an interactive
museum explaining music from classical to contemporary, is only a five-minute
walk. Book well ahead if you're interested in experiencing a performance by the
Vienna Boys' Choir or if you'd like to see the famous Vienna Lippizaner
Stallions. Refresh at the Hotel Imperial's beautiful Cafe Imperial Wien or in
the cushy lounge, where their Opera cake is a worthy contender as the city's
best pastry indulgence.
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| Hotel Imperial, Vienna |
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| Lobby Lounge, Hotel Imperial |
Salzburg has
some of Austria's most festive Christmas markets. The Salzburger
Christkindlmarkt on and around Cathedral Square and Residenzplatz
Square is the oldest and largest in Salzburg. You'll hear traces of
Mozart tunes along with Christmas carols as you stroll among the booths. Did
you know that the Christmas carol, "Silent Night, Holy Night" was
written here? Look upward towards illuminated Hohensalzburg Fortress and
walk the festively lit lanes and city square -- there's no way not to be taken
in by the Christmas feeling in this "City of Mozart." The holiday
festivities also include folk songs, an exhibition of mangers, and a procession
of Perchten, a pagan-inspired group wearing frightening masks. The city's tour
guides are among the most knowledgeable on the continent, and you can sign up
for a walking tour of Christkindlmarkt and the city. Tours leave from the
Christmas tree in front of the Residenz daily. Add some extra time to visit the
birth home of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, a must for any classical music fan.
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| Christmas Market, Salzburg |
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| Salzburg |
Where to Stay: Just a short walk from the Christmas market, The
Hotel Goldener Hirsch is a
15th-century gem with the conveniences of the 21st century. Located on the
pedestrian-friendly street where you'll find the birthplace of Wolfgang Amadeus
Mozart (Mozarts Geburtshaus), the hotel embodies service, quirkiness and charm.
Staircases lead to various wings and corridors filled with antiques and
artifacts, a breakfast room that's as charming as its staff, and a cozy dining
room and bar. A view from your room will remind you why Salzburg is continually
ranked one of Europe's best small cities. If you need a pick-me-up grab a Bosna, a local form of hot dog made with
grilled pork bratwurst and onions, at the Balkan Grill Walter in the alley next
door. To satisfy a sweet tooth, Mozartkugeln,
chocolate balls filled with pistachio marzipan and nougat, can be purchased at
many of the city’s souvenir shops.
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| The Hotel Goldener Hirsch |
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| Breakfast Room, The Goldener Hirsch |
GERMANY
Munich, not
surprisingly, is filled with Christmas markets, a festive expression of the
season throughout Germany. From the expansive Christmas and winter market
at Munich Airport to the impressive market in the city center
that stretches to the Altes Rathaus, the city is a Christmas
postcard. You'll want to start at the covered airport market where you can
skate, stock up on holiday gifts from the stalls of handicrafts and local
treats, and enjoy the onsite biergarden. A short train ride brings you to the
center of Munich and the city's most famous winter market where the entire Marienplatz
(St. Mary’s Square) is
filled with booths selling everything Christmas from hand-painted glass baubles
to clothing and treats like stollen. Just a few steps away in Neuhauser Strasse, you'll find
Germany's largest manger market with authentic Nativity scenes. For a lively
twist on the traditional Christkindlmarkt, head to Wintertollwood with
its program of concerts, and vendors selling quirky crafts and ethnic foods
like kletzbrot, a bread with nuts,
fruit and honey; and fatschnkindtl, a
pastry shaped like the baby Jesus in the manger.
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| Christkindlmarkt and Marienplatz, Munich |
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| Wooden soldier stand at Christmas Market in Marienplatz, Munich |
Where to Stay: The perfect choice in
pedestrian-friendly Munich is the tradition-filled Bayerische
Hof. Notable for its unique styling,
sleek or traditional accommodations including a rooftop penthouse, variety of
dining options, and five-star service, the hotel has been attracting guests of
note since 1841. Fans of Michael Jackson will recall this grande dame as
the singer’s hotel of choice in the city -- they still pay homage to him at an
unofficial shrine erected in front of the hotel. Breakfast at the Bayerische
Hof is a dream with an extravagant buffet set against a backdrop of the skyline
of the city. Indulge yourself in one of the few remaining Trader Vic's, a
kitschy, delicious throwback to the 50s when Polynesian-style dining was the
epitome of glam and fun. The Michelin-starred Atelier restaurant and a
traditional German cellar room complete the culinary choices, and a late-night
piano bar and club with live music and dancing is a must-visit if only to see
the rows of liquor lockers afforded to VIPs. A favorite among locals and
visitors alike, Falk’s Bar sits at
the top of the lobby-lounge in the Hall of Mirrors, the only part of the
hotel rescued from the ruins of World War II -- it's perfect for a warm-up
cocktail, tea or coffee after shopping the markets. But, if you’re not afraid
of the cold, the seasonal Polar
Bar is the place to be – you can even stay toasty warm in an igloo set
outside on the terrace.
From the hotel, it's an easy walk to the city's
acclaimed Opera House (Bayerische Staatsoper) and culinary mecca Dallmayr
(Delicatessen) with its crave-worthy food displays and tempting cafe. Of
note, you can also buy many treats to take home from the Dallmayr shop and
bistro at Munich Airport’s Terminal 2.
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| The Lobby and Falk's
Bar at the Bayerische Hof |
Berlin has no shortage of Christmas markets with more than 70
to choose from. Two, in particular, are worth noting as you choose which venues
to visit. Close to the S-Bahn, the U-Bahn and the designer shopping area
of Mitte, the smallish one near Hackescher
Market is a great place to get your feet wet when it comes to navigating a
Christmas market. It’s personal, manageable and not overrun with people. Ready
for more? Walk to the city’s most famous Christmas market at Gendarmenmarkt. Your first stop
can be a food break where you’ll fortify on currywurst, strudel and Glühwein,
all under a covered tent. You’ll also get a ceramic mug to take home (your
deposit covers that). Since the market is set right in front of the
Konzerthaus, there’s lively music on-stage to keep your mood festive while you
walk the market. Enjoy the crystal, holiday clothing, and merriment
as you dance your way to the tunes of a traditional band. Other
markets to consider are the Lucia Christmas Market in Kulturbrauerei Berlin in the Prenzlauer Berg district where lots of
family-friendly programs keep the little ones occupied in between shopping, and
the romantic market and booths at Charlottenburg
Palace, the former residence of Queen Sophie Charlotte.
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| Currywurst and
a beer |
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| Booths amid music at the Gendarmenmarkt |
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| Miniatures houses for sale at Gendarmenmarkt |
Where to Stay: The elegant five-star Hotel Adlon Kempinski
Berlin next to the Brandenburg Gate and minutes from the Grosser
Tiergarten park defines service and luxury. The hotel’s magnificent Champagne
and caviar breakfast is second to none and tea in the lobby is almost
a religious experience. From here it's an easy walk to the museums along Unter
den Linden and to Leipziger Platz and Potsdamer Platz, the site of yet another
Christmas market. Trendy, design-oriented Mitte is a little further away. For a
strudel and coffee warm-up, try nearby Cafe Einstein.
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| The lobby at the
Adlon Kempinski, Berlin |
FRANCE
In Paris, the city’s Christmas
markets seem to change from year to year. This year, the Christmas market
stalls formerly along the Champs-Elysées can now be found near the Jardins
des Tuileries and the Louvre, near the Eiffel Tower at
Champs des Mars, and with one of the largest assemblages at La Defense in the city’s business district. In
addition to food vendors hawking beer tastings, oysters, hot wine and sausages,
you’ll find a skating rink along with great arts and crafts. For something
a bit different, there’s also an Alsatian Christmas market at Gare de l’Est where you can enjoy gourmet
Alsatian treats like potato pancakes, choucroute, Munster cheese and traditional
kougelhopf cake plus Christmas market staples like mulled wine and gingerbread.
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| Christmas markets,
Parisian style |
Where to Stay: After munching on holiday
goodies, take the metro to the Palais Royal or the Louvre to take advantage of
the museums' fabulous exhibits at a time when crowds are at their lowest. You
can rest after that at the newly refreshed Hotel Le Meurice,
offering a five-star palace and spa experience within walking distance of the
Louvre and Place de la Concorde. If you’d prefer a location that’s more
bohemian, choose instead to explore the lively Left Bank with its many
restaurants, shopping, and nightlife. The cozy and charming Hotel le Senat at the corner of the Luxembourg Gardens has an intimate breakfast room and lobby, and you can get a
room with a balcony that overlooks the roofs of the city. Caring service by
staff members, an über-comfortable bed, and thoughtful touches like an honor
bar and late-morning breakfast set-up in the lobby add to the appeal. The
hotel offers a winning location a short walk from Saint Germain
des Près with its literary landmarks Les Deux Magots and Café de Flore where you can refuel and
recharge while you people-watch. Feel like a crêpe? Try tiny La Crêperie Du Clown on Rue des Canettes.
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| Hotel le Senat
balcony room |
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| Luxembourg Gardens |
HUNGARY
Budapest provides a chance to experience two lovely Christmas markets
at two central locations within walking distance of each other. The Christmas
Market on Vörösmarty Square is the city’s oldest. There you’ll enjoy shopping
the many handicrafts stalls, munching on Hungarian pastries and listening to daily
concerts. The second market, by the Basilica on St. Stephen’s Square, adds to
the festivities with a Christmas laser projection and small ice skating rink.
Both markets are close to the city’s pedestrian walking area and the Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace Budapest where you can
warm up with the Herend afternoon tea in the cupola under historic Peacock
Passage.
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| Budapest Christmas
Market Credit: BudapestChristmas.com |
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| Four Seasons Gresham
Palace Christmas market and drink cart |
Where to Stay: In addition to offering some of
the most beautiful accommodations in Budapest, along with top-rated service and
dining, the elegant Four
Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace Budapest is superbly situated just across
from the lovely Chain Bridge connecting Buda (and its castle district) and Pest
(where the hotel is located). You’ll also be near the pedestrian walking
area of shops and wine bars, which leads to the massive Central Market Hall and
the waterfront. (Don't miss taking a night cruise on the Legenda to see the dramatic cityscape
lit up along the Danube River). From the hotel, it’s an easy walk to the Jewish
Quarter, the fascinating ruin bars, and Andrassy Avenue, the city’s monumental
shopping boulevard. If you prefer a stay at a smaller hotel, the whimsical, music-themed
Aria
Hotel Budapest sits adjacent to St. Stephen’s Basilica, convenient to
the Christmas markets and pedestrian streets. A short taxi ride away and dating
from 1894, the stunning New
York Palace Hotel has gorgeous accommodations and the
famous New York Cafe for a meal any time of the day or live
piano music to accompany a pastry and coffee.
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| Hotel Gresham Palace Budapest |
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| Hotel Gresham Palace at Christmas |
CZECH REPUBLIC
The Old Town in Prague is
home to an elaborate Christmas market that attracts visitors from both sides of
the Charles Bridge. In Old Town Square near the astronomical clock at
City Hall and the city's official Christmas tree, you’ll see booth after
enticing booth filled with Bohemian crystal, scarves and gloves, and
handcrafted toys. Stop a moment and indulge in one of the Czech Republic’s
traditional trdelnik, a churro-like creation that will warm you against the
wind coming off the river. It goes especially well with a cup of spiced mulled
wine or a frothy hot chocolate. Or, grab a traditional pilsner to help you
soak up the lively holiday spirit. Each day features entertainment with a
program including children’s concerts, folk music, jazz and Christmas carols. The
Christmas market here and the one at the bottom of Wenceslas Square stay
open past New Year's so you can shop without hurry. There are also smaller
markets at Republic Square, Prague
Castle at St. George’s Square and
at the stable yard, as well as at Peace Square in front of the Church of
St. Ludmila where a decorated tree with a hand-painted nativity scene sets the
holiday tone.
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| Christmas market in Old Town Square, Prague |
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| Trdelnik |
Where to Stay: The
Mandarin Oriental in the historic Malá Strana
quarter (lesser town) of Prague is the perfect place to escape the crowds and
regroup. The atmospheric setting of this five-star hotel, built in a former
Dominican monastery with vaulted ceilings, is quiet and pampering with each
room a different configuration. Food and drink are superb as is the service.
The Mandarin Spa, set in what was previously a Renaissance chapel, defines
luxury. From the hotel, you can stroll to the constantly repainted John Lennon Wall which attracts hippies
and rock ‘n rollers of all ages to add messages of peace and love. Nearby
in Kampa Park is David Cerny’s eerie Crawling Babies monument, a sort of
aliens-meet-Jeff Koons sculpture installation set by the river and a symbol of
the Communist era. If this kind of art doesn’t strike your fancy, you can walk
up historic Nerudova Street, with its creative house markers to Prague Castle
and enjoy some of the city’s most amazing views. For a fabulous meal, take a
five-minute walk from the Mandarin to the charming boutique Aria Hotel Prague,
where every floor is themed to a specific style of music or a particular artist
or composer. CODA Restaurant,
just off the lobby, offers two indulgent tasting menus: one a Czech version and
the other a more eclectic selection of five-star cuisine from talented chef
David Sasek.
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| Renaissance charm at
the Mandarin Oriental, Prague |
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