A Newport, Rhode Island Getaway: Cooking amid Class, History and Seaside Elegance
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The Breakers - Courtesy of Discover Newport |
Newport, Rhode Island looms large in the lore of 19th-century
society. It was where the wealthy vacationed, where they built their summer
“cottages,” and where they entertained on a grand scale. The mansions lining Bellevue
Avenue offer a taste of the Gilded Age, and they welcome you year-round to
explore and imagine life as it was in what has been dubbed
“America’s First Resort.”
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The Music Room at The Breakers - Credit: Meryl Pearlstein |
For those of us who live more modestly, Newport
holds much appeal beyond this fantasy life of the rich and famous of the 1880s.
It’s also the playground of the sailing and yachting set and known for the America’s
Cup. Newport is a walkable town with quaint New England shops, beautiful flowers,
stunning buildings, and oodles and oodles of history. It also remains a beacon
to what is possible: having a port that early on rivaled that of New York and
Boston, and serving as a haven for religious freedom from as early as 1639. And
if the fresh ocean air doesn’t capture you with its salty perfume, the
friendliness of the locals certainly will. Newport will always be a place to
visit again and again. https://www.discovernewport.org/
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Bellevue Avenue - Credit: Meryl Pearlstein |
I have returned to Newport many times, in different
seasons and have had a wonderfully enriching getaway each visit. The regatta and racing season may not begin until June, but spring is equally delightful in this elegant seaside town. Walking past the historic and architecturally significant International Tennis Hall of Fame or stopping at the quirky Audrain Automobile Museum for more dreaming and drooling -- this all adds to the appeal of the city.
seasons and have had a wonderfully enriching getaway each visit. The regatta and racing season may not begin until June, but spring is equally delightful in this elegant seaside town. Walking past the historic and architecturally significant International Tennis Hall of Fame or stopping at the quirky Audrain Automobile Museum for more dreaming and drooling -- this all adds to the appeal of the city.
Audrain Automobile Museum - Credit: Meryl Pearlstein |
Audrain Automobile Museum - Credit: Meryl Pearlstein |
Newport is the home of the oldest
synagogue in the United States.The 1763 Touro Synagogue welcomes
visitors on a guided tour where you learn about the
beginnings of the Sephardic community in the United States and George Washington’s inspirational letter to the Jews of Newport. The letter, written in 1790, is read
annually to the congregation and visitors. The synagogue sits on Newport’s
Historic Hill with the neighboring Seventh Day Baptist Meeting House dating
from 1730 and the 1835 Levi Gale House.
Touro Synagogue - Credit: Meryl Pearlstein |
Head back towards Bellevue Avenue for a
look at the sprawling campus of Salve Regina College with its magnificent
Gilded Age buildings and climb along the paths and rocks of the Cliff Walk for
a privileged and intimate look at the back yards of the many mansions overlooking
the Atlantic Ocean. The Preservation Society of Newport
will provide a list of the openings of the various cottages so you can also
explore indoors, generally on a self-guided audio tour. The Breakers, Rosecliff,
Château sur Mer, The Elms and Marble House are the only cottages currently open, but all will be allowing tours by the end of May. (Insider’s note: the gift shops at the
cottages offer some amazing “period” souvenirs that you may decide to keep for
yourselves.) http://www.newportmansions.org/
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The Breakers - Credit: Meryl Pearlstein |
Driving along historic Ocean Drive, one of the country’s
most distinguished and beautiful residential roads, leads you to the premier destination for a Newport getaway, The Castle Hill Inn. Built in 1874 as a summer house, the landmark Victorian mansion delivers an
experience that conjures up a stay among the society folks of the Gilded
Age. With its sloping lawn and
Adirondack chairs strategically placed for optimal bay breezes as well as views
of neighboring Rose Island and Pell Bridge,
Castle Hill Inn regally welcomes you for a classy, peaceful stay. The resort
itself has many areas: the main inn rooms and their adjacent Harbor House and
chalet accommodations; a main dining room, private dining area; two bars; a spa;
a living room; and a line-up of individual beach cottages and houses where you
walk across the sand to arrive at your own private house with fireplace and
indoor and outdoor sitting areas.
Castle Hill Inn -- both photos, credit: Meryl Pearlstein |
For beach lovers, no matter the season, the Atlantic
Ocean-facing cottages should be your choice of accommodation. The morning air
and unblemished sand invite you to stroll along the shore while you search for
sea glass that frequently washes up here. It’s a short drive up the hill to the
main house where breakfast, lunch and dinner are served in the oceanview dining
room, and where a reservation for Sunday’s jazz brunch is de rigueur. If you would prefer to stay in the main inn, the bi-level
turret suite with its sweeping views of Narragansett Bay is pure Victorian
bliss.
Beach Cottages at Castle Hill Inn - both photos credit: Meryl Pearlstein |
Last spring, I participated in the resort’s cooking school, let by Executive Chef Lou
Rossi and Executive Pasty Chef Matthew Petersen. In the Inn’s lawn kitchen which serves
guests outdoors during the warmer months, we learned how to make exquisite
bakery items. My favorite was twirling the dough around my finger to create a
somewhat round bagel. Others were more adept than I, but that was part
of the fun. I had never tried anything like that before, and I loved it. I also
loved making savory quiches and fruity crepes along with croissants with their
many layers and pounds of butter. As we got more inventive, we made mini
versions that replicated the larger croissants, just to see if we could.
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Castle Hill Inn Spring Cooking School - all photos credit: Meryl Pearlstein |
After
a day of rolling, pounding, and filling doughy, carb-filled creations, it was important to celebrate our
successes with a Champagne toast and some wondrous cocktails. Beverage Director
Anthony Boi showed us a number of variations on the Bloody Mary, to perfectly
complement our brunch menu. The Inn’s specialty, and a riff on a New England standby,
uses tomato-flavored vodka and adds clam juice to add a bit of salt-air
intrigue.
Castle Hill Inn
Castle Hill Inn is a shingle-style
Relais & Châteaux situated on 40 acres just at the entrance of Narragansett
Bay. The original 19th-century Agassiz Mansion has seven guest rooms and
suites with stunning views. Outside of the main mansion, you’ll find 26
private, waterfront accommodations in the Harbor House, Chalet, Beach Houses
and Beach Cottages. Activities at the inn vary by season, but there are always
outdoor exploring, wellness and cooking weekends, spa treatments, champagne
brunches, stargazing, bonfires, and beachcombing. The resort has hosted many
famous guests over its long history, with perhaps the most celebrated being
Grace Kelly who stayed while filming High
Society in 1956. The resort’s secluded seaside cove bears her name. 590
Ocean Drive, Newport, RI 02840, 401-849-3800, or 888-466-1355.
Executive Chef Lou oversees the curved oceanview dining room
and crafts a changing menu of farm (or sea) to table international and regional
choices. The Inn’s Sunday jazz brunch is popular among locals as well as guests
and should be booked well in advance. Don’t miss the decadent lobster hash
topped with poached eggs as well as any of the baked goods from Pasty Chef
Petersen. In addition to offering the perfected Bloody Mary, the bar features a
selection of more than 800 wines, acclaimed by Wine Spectator with the “Best of Award of Excellence” for the past
10 years.
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Castle Hill Inn brunch - all photos credit: Meryl Pearlstein |
To end winter, treat yourself to a “Retreat to Romance”
weekend, with the indulgence of a couple’s massage at the Spa and Farmaesthetics
Fine Herbal Skincare products along with the healthfulness of farm-to-table
dining. Stay for two nights and toast the vernal equinox with a bottle of
Champagne in your room adorned with flowers. The Inn’s decadently
refined Afternoon Tea adds to the romance and rejuvenation.
Families aren’t forgotten either. Castle Hill’s popular
Easter Weekend kicks off on Saturday morning April 15 with the annual Easter
Egg Hunt on The Lawn and throughout the gardens. Proceeds from this event
benefit the Child & Family of Newport County fund. Brunch on Easter Sunday
celebrates the bounty of spring in the hotel’s oceanview dining room. For reservations, call 401-840-3800.
I highly recommend the springtime Castle Hill Cooking Class
which reprises this year from May 5-7. Executive Chef Lou Rossi and Executive Pastry Chef Matthew
Petersen will again lead guests through two days of culinary craftsmanship. Also
part of this year’s Cooking Class, wine education sessions will be overseen by
Beverage Director Anthony Boi. The theme may be different from last year’s
brunch focus, but it’s sure to fill your head as well as your stomach with
delicious treats. Be prepared to get your hands dirty and learn the secrets of
great culinary cuisine. For reservations, call 888-466-1335. http://castlehillinn.com/about-castle-hill-inn-social-datebook.
More Events
If you can tear yourself away from the calm and indulgent
setting of Castle Hill Inn, Newport beckons with a lively dining scene. From March 27-April 7, it’s Newport’s Spring Restaurant Week, a great time to sample local dining at great prices. More than 50 restaurants
will be offering a three-course prix fixe
lunch for $16 or a three-course prix fixe
dinner for only $35.
Two of my favorites are among those participating this year.
The bi-level Midtown Oyster Bar is always hopping with its sailing crowd (even in the off-season) and live
music at the bar. The crudos, ceviches and oysters from the raw bar are
top-notch. Scales and Shells Restaurant and Raw Bar
just down the street is another Newport favorite, an all-seafood experience in
a comfortable setting. Be sure to order their New England clambake – there’s
nothing like a grilled New England lobster, except perhaps a steamed or hot
boiled one. The restaurant has an extensive oyster selection that changes daily
and great artisanal beers.
Scales and Shells - both photos credit: Meryl Pearlstein |
Grab a yellow daffodil pin and join the locals and visitors
who celebrate the end of winter and the birth of spring with The Newport Daffodil Days Festival from April
15-23. This 10-day event coincides with the emergence of half a million
daffodils throughout the city. A calendar of events shows parades, bike tours
to view daffodil fields, garden visits, and a back-in-time lawn party at the
historic Bellevue House.
Newport Daffodil Days Festival - credit: Meryl Pearlstein |
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