Gorgeous St. Paul de Vence
The French Rivera is dotted with villages perchés, clinging almost impossibly to the tops and sides
of hills throughout the countryside. On
a family excursion throughout the Côte d’Azur, it became a mantra to discover
which of these often- fortified villages could outdo the next. Our favorite was
clearly St. Paul (also known as St. Paul-de-Vence), a marvelously preserved and
restored gem with cobblestoned climbs and virtually intact ramparts still protecting
it from the warring factions of yore. Just 12 miles outside of Nice, the
village towers over the rolling hills and rich valleys of the Vence
countryside.
The sight of St. Paul has inspired artists throughout the
years to sketch its precarious foothold in the sky, and my husband and sons
responded in kind. Just short of donning
French berets to complete the tableau, they parked themselves on a curb outside
the stone arched climb into the village to draw this 16th -century
miracle. Armed with colored pencils, fine-point markers and sketch pads, my
three budding artists sat in pictorial juxtaposition with an intense game of boules just around the bend from the
famed Colombe d’Or.
Originally a gathering place and café for young and unknown
painters in the 1920s, the Colombe d’Or now rates as one of the Riviera’s
toniest restaurants. While a seat at the
walled, garden patio is a delight on one of the Riviera’s azure-blue, sunny
days, it is considered a coup to experience the old auberge itself. Only those staying at the inn or having
confirmed dining reservations are allowed a look at the Colombe’s esteemed art
collection, which rivals that of the nearby Fondation Maeght. In return for
lodging and viands, Modigliani, Bonnard, Braques and other then-unknown artists
contributed paintings which now adorn the walls of the auberge. Struggling
artists were later followed by intellectuals of the literary world such as
Camus and Prévert and later-day French film icons Yves Montand and Simone
Signoret.
Turning the bend, past the multi-generation “bowling”
competitions held daily across from the Café de la Place, one enters the
medieval world of St. Paul, up a short climb and through a well-defined entry
arch.
Ascending St. Paul’s narrow pedestrian-only main street, the
Rue Grande, one can almost touch the 17th and 18th century homes on each side, many filled with elegant and creative art and
handicrafts galleries. The artist tradition continues at every turn, leading to
the town’s most spacious gathering spot, a square of sorts around an urn-shaped
fountain. Popular as a tourist destination, St. Paul offers a variety of
shopping choices and cozy restaurants, but few options for family dining. If
traveling with children, put together a picnic instead with fresh bread, cheese
and cold cuts from the local boulangerie and charcuterie outside the walled
city.
Digressions up the stepped streets off the Rue Grande lead
to such gems as the 12th century gothic church on the rue de la
Castre, with a commanding position overlooking the village. France’s rich
religious heritage is revealed in the church’s lavish interior décor and its
celebration of the Jubilee, replete with colorful tapestries and flowers
adjacent to traditional oil canvases and carvings. Among the church’s
interesting art pieces is a painting of St. Catherine of Alexandria attributed
to Tintoretto.
An escape from the crowds and a particular delight at sunset
was a stroll along the parapet walk adjacent to the thick stone wall ramparts
that encircle St. Paul. Surrounded by
the coat-of-arms brandishing homes lining the walk, one could easily time
travel to a simpler world when views of the Alps, the sea, and the Esterel
provided the inspiration for new artistic palettes and a fitting motivation for
the location of the Fondation Maeght, further down the road.
Simultaneously an interior and exterior art museum, the
Fondation Maeght feels like a college campus, set in a rich green forest with
art works all around. Designed by
architect José Sert in 1964, the sprawling modern art museum ranks among
France’s most significant, with notable works by Chagall, Miró, Calder, Braques
and Bonnard. Rotating exhibits of the Fondation’s permanent collection of 20th
century art are displayed with an awareness of color and presence. The use of
cameras and video equipment is permitted for a small charge and is highly
recommended to capture the excitement of the expansive outdoor sculpture garden
as well as the airy rooms inside. Especially enchanting for the entire family
is the Labyrinthe de Miró, a
statue-filled maze of trees, water and gargoyles.
To reach St. Paul, park your car very carefully in the car
park down the road from the arch. Parking spaces are surprisingly narrow and
the spiraling turns in the garage require skillful negotiation. Expect to be
bombarded after exiting the garage by numerous shops all hawking household
items with the ubiquitous yellow and blue colors of Provence. Purchase memory
cards, instead, and bring back a photographic souvenir of the wonders of St.
Paul.
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