Marea Ups the Formal Quotient in Dining... Wonderfully

I loved my meal at Marea, Chef Michael White's stellar vision of Italian seafood on Central Park South in the old San Domenico space now sleekly done with clubby touches and a crudo bar. No misses here -- from the ricci starter of sea urchin spread with lardo to the pastas, lobster with burrata, Hawaiian swordfish with fruit and the sublime affogato dessert drink. Can't wait to go back to try Marea's Le Collezione menu at the Crudo Bar, offering six crudi, five small portions of pasta, and dessert for $125. 240 Central Park South, 212-582-5100.